Drametse,
the peak with no enemy has a monastery resting on the shoulder of steep slope,
and is eighteen Kilometers ride from the junction of Monggar-Trashigang highway.
The sixteenth century monastery houses the relic stupa (Kudung) of Jetsun
Ratna Dharma alias Ani Chorten Zangmo who is to the date acknowledged as the
essence of hundred thousand sky-walkers. She was also known by the name ‘Ache Rinchen’
in the writings of Terton Padma Lingpa. The Ruby Rosary; activities of three
incarnation lines of Padma Lingpa, which was published in the year 2011 reads
that Ani Chorten Zangmo was born to Dungsey Tenzin Choegyal, the son of Gyalsey
Sangdak, and so unquestionably was the great granddaughter of Terton Padma
Lingpa. The famed hagiographical works of 3rd Pema Lingpa,
Kunkhyen Tsultim Dorje, and the wooden block entreaty of Ani Chorten Zangmo also
support the claim.
She
was married to Yeshe Gyalpo from Sumthrang Choeje but having been sick and
tired of the cyclic existence, she renounced her family whom she thought were
the obstacle to the enlightenment. The other version says that she fled from
Bumthang to escape the repeated marriage proposal from the son of Chhokhor Deb
(chieftain) Kunthhub. Her brother Chung Kunga Nyingpo and a small number of
attendants escorted her during the escape to eastern region of Bhutan. On
reaching at Aja-Nye the shell trumpet when blown gave a trifling sound and thereafter
the place was named as ‘Dungkhar Choeling’. The caravan of aforesaid travelers then reached
at Brahmitse, the peak which shelters the tribal community of Tawang. In line to
the predestination, it was at Brahmitse, the present-day hermitage at Drupchhu
where the shell trumpet produced melodious sound. The place from then on became
to be known as ‘Drametse’, which literally means the peak with no enemy; a
state of total freedom of distraction to pursue dharma.
After
a decade and three years of mediation at Drupchu Goenpa, Ani Chorten Zangmo and
Chung Kunga Nyingpo established Thechog Namdrol Ugyen Choeling Lhakhang at
Drametse in 1511 AD. The oral history says that during the groundwork of the
Lhakhang, Ani Chorten Zangmo through her wisdom eye saw a human size
caterpillar under a big stone. After eons of suffering under such hell and due
to ripening of good Karma, Ani Chorten Zangmo liberated the worm by conducting
bonfire ritual. The Lhakhang having been consecrated became the place of
worship where thousand petals of Peling tradition blossomed. During the late 16th
century, Chung Kunga Nyingpo’s son Tenzin Jurmey Dorje and grandson Kencho
Tenzin extended it into three storey monastery representing three bodies of a
Buddha; Dharmakaya, Sambhogakaya and Nirmanakaya. The upmost floor has the
chapel of Pekar, the chief spirit all the Gyalpo class, and in a different
chamber has the five sisters of long life. The middle floor has shrine of
Palden Lhamo, Tsuimar, Hayagriva, Zhabdrung, and a room of Sutra & Tantra.
The ground floor has Guru Rinpoche’s statue and snow lion throne of His
Holiness Lhalung Sungtrul Rinpoche, the 11th Padma Lingpa.
The
riches of the monastery include relic stupa (Kudung) of Ani Chorten Zangmo,
horn of a horse, the crystal bottle with water said to calculate apocalypse,
golden vajra, sacred oyster, Astadasahasrika-prajnaparamita (Perfection of
Wisdom in Eight Thousand Lines) inscribed with golden ink, and skull (kapala) of Dakini with self-arisen
syllables ‘Om Ah Hung’, etc. History of the Dakini kapala dates back to the
eighth century. The queen mother had her last breath during the labour but the
child was found alive when about to cremate. She was raised by the monkeys, and
even developed webbed hands and feet indicating the enlightened characteristic.
She was known by the name Sakya Devi and was Guru Rinpoche’s first consort from
Nepal. After having received the secret and sacred initiations from Guru
Rinpoche at Pharping, she remained as yogini until her nirvana. Her Kapala
(skull) was at that time concealed as a treasure at Samye only to be unearthed
by Terton Padma Lingpa. This treasure Kapala was later received by Ani Chorten
Zangmo as a share of birthright from Tamzhing Choeje and was carried to
Drametse during her escape.
After
Ani Chorten Zangmo passed away into small rainbow body, her son (from the
marriage with Yeshe Gyalpo at early age) Dhungsey Choewang Dargay started
‘Drametse Choeje’ which blessed with the birth of two successive incarnations
of Zhabdrung Ngawang Namgyel; Zhabdrung Jigme Norbu (1831-1861) and Zhabdrung
Jigme Chogyal (1862-1904). Prior to the two incarnations, Zhabdrung Jigme
Drakpa (1791-1830) was also said to be born at Drametse but his lineage from
Drametse Choeje is yet to be known. The Choeje however was ended with Choeje
Tenzin as the last heir.
The
monastery is also renowned for the origin of twenty one chaptered drum dance of
Drametse (Drametse Ngacham), one of the UNESCO’s ‘Masterpieces of the
Oral and Intangible World Heritage of Humanity’. The orchestra of this mask
dance is made of sixteen dancers wearing different masks of real and mythical
animals; snow lion, garuda, dragon, yak, leopard, goat, snake, raven, horse,
owl, stag, pig, dog, bear, tiger, and ox. In one of the visions of Chung Kunga Nyingpo,
the drum dance was initially performed by celestial beings to welcome him at
‘Copper-Coloured Palace’ of Guru Rinpoche. Chung Kunga Nyingpo passed down the
choreography of this drum dance at Drametse and in so doing gave it the name
‘Drametse Ngacham’.
There
are countless riches, colours, and legends at Drametse which if put on paper
would take days and months, so why not stopover at Drametse and walk around to
experience its richness? The 5th, 6th and 10th
lunar months are the Grade ‘A’ holiday time for you will be able to witness
Trelda Tshechu (honouring ceremony of Guru Rinpoche’s Birthday), Tordok (The
burning of evil effigy for good harvest and wellbeing of the community), and
Kangso Chhenmo (bonfire rituals during the festival eve) respectively.
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